Subject Code & Name: HT25401 – Fabric Structure I
Regulation: R-2025
Semester: IV (Fourth Semester)
Branch: B.Tech. Handloom and Textile Technology (Handloom)
Credits / L-T-P: 4 Credits | L-T-P: 3-0-2
Course Objectives
- To help students learn how woven fabrics are made, understand simple design parts and weave types, and create basic weaves, towels, fancy patterns, and color designs.
Full Unit-wise Syllabus
Unit I – Introduction To Fabric Structure
Classification of textile fabrics; classification of woven fabrics - simple, compound and complex; fundamental aspects of woven fabrics- count of graph paper, Methods of representing design on graph paper; Principle of Design, draft, denting, lifting & tie-up plans. Types of draft - straight draft, skipped draft, pointed draft, herringbone draft, mixed draft, etc.
Unit II – Plain Weave and its derivatives
Plain weave - ornamentation of plain weaves; study of derivative structures of plain weave - regular and irregular warp rib, weft rib, hopsack and basket weaves. Catch-cord technique: design, draft, denting, peg/tie-up plan and thread interlacing diagram of the above weaves.
Practical: 1. Analysis of weave and construction details (Design, Draft, lifting plan, thread density, warp, weft count, crimp, GSM) of fabrics with Plain weave. Determination of yarn requirement for manufacturing 100 meters of solid colour fabrics 2. Analysis of weave and construction details of fabrics with Rib weave. Determination of yarn requirement for manufacturing 100 meters of stripe fabrics
Activities: Draw simple weave designs on graph paper and identify fabric types from samples
Unit III – Twill Weaves
Study of twill weaves up to 12 threads; classification of twills - warp- faced twill, weft-faced twill and equal-faced twill, left-hand twill and Right-hand twill; influence of the twist direction of yarn over prominence of twill lines.
Practical: 1. Analysis of weave and construction details of fabrics with Twill weave. Determination of yarn requirement for manufacturing 100 meters of check fabrics
Activities: Draw and identify different twill weaves and observe twill line direction
Unit IV – Derivatives of Twill Weave I
Study of derivatives of twill weaves - wavy twill, herringbone, transposed twill, broken twill, elongated twill, combined twill, figured twill, angle of inclination of twill diagonals- Steep twill and Flat twill; – Drafts, lifting plan & tie up, treadling plan for the above designs. Difference between wavy twill along and across, wavy twill and herringbone.
Practical: Analysis of weave and construction details of fabrics with wavy twill.
Activities: Compare twill derivatives and prepare draft, lifting, tie-up plans
Unit V – Derivatives of Twill Weave II (Diamond and Satin Weave)
Diamond weave, twill dice check, diaper; sateen and satin up to 12 threads - regular and irregular, satin dice check weaves; design, draft, denting, peg/tie-up plan and thread interlacing diagram of above weaves. Difference between diamond and diaper, satin and sateen.
Practical: 1. Analysis of weave and construction details of fabrics with diamond twill 2. Analysis of weave and construction details of fabrics with sateen/satin twill
Activities: Prepare weave diagrams and compare diamond, diaper, satin and sateen structures
Unit VI – Towelling Weaves
Study of honey comb weaves-ordinary honey comb, stitched honey comb and Brighton’s honey comb designs- cell formation; study of Huck-a-Back weave- Construction of Standard Huck-a-Back (10 X 10), Devon’s Huck-a-Back; mock leno and corkscrew weaves. Design, draft, and peg/tie-up plan and thread interlacing diagram of the above weaves
Practical: 1. Analysis of weave and construction details of fabrics with Honeycomb weave. 2. Analysis of weave and construction details of fabrics with Huck-a-back/Mock leno weaves.
Activities: Conduct viva and quiz on honeycomb, huckaback, mock leno weaves
Unit VII – Combination of Weaves
Crepe weaves-construction upon a sateen base, by combination of floating weaves with plain thread, by reversing, and by insertion of one weave over another. Combination of weaves-twill and plain, mock-leno and plain, honeycomb and plain, stripe and check effect by these combinations.
Activities: Create and analyze crepe and combination weave designs using graphs
Practical: Analysis of weave and construction details of fabrics with Crepe weave.
Unit VIII – Colour And Weave Effect
Introduction to colour and weave effects- continuous line effect, hound's tooth patterns, bird’s eye and spot effects, hairline stripes, step patterns and all-over effects.
Activities: Create colour and weave patterns like houndstooth, stripes and checks
Course Outcomes (COs)
- CO1: Understand the principles of plain weaves and their derivatives and construct basic weave designs.
- CO2: Apply weave design principles to develop different twill weave structures and their derivatives.
- CO3: Analyze diamond and satin weave designs with respect to construction and fabric characteristics.
- CO4: Evaluate woven fabric designs suitable for towel production based on performance and end-use requirements.
- CO5: Create fabric designs using different colour and weave effects to achieve desired aesthetic and functional properties.
Assessment Pattern (Quick Note)
- Weightage: Continuous Assessment 50% | End Semester Examinations 50%
- Internal methodology: Assignment (20%), Quiz (20%), Industrial/ Field visit (20%), Internal Examinations (40%)
Source: Official Anna University – B.Tech. Handloom and Textile Technology R-2025 Syllabus
Last Updated: October 2026
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